Venturing Outside of Budapest

For such a small country ( only 10 million citizens) Hungary boasts a vastly different terrain from North to South. Honestly before moving here I couldn’t tell you any Hungarian city other than Budapest and I didn’t have a huge amount of interest in venturing to the far reaches of the country. I think, especially for Americans, the concept of having a train system that can carry you to another country in mere hours seems like such a novelty. I grew up in Tennessee where the nearest country was either a 17 hour drive north or a 20 hour drive south. Not really realistic. I was giddy at the idea of getting on a train in Hungary and in as little as 2 hours debarking in another country. ANOTHER COUNTRY. What a novelty. It felt like I suddenly knew how to do a fun little party trick that could spellbound anyone who watched. After I had settled in and started feeling like Budapest was my home, I realized that I was doing myself a disservice by only traveling to other countries. The little bit of Hungary I had seen was gorgeous and I made a goal to see more of the country where I lived. 

So where did I go? Thanks for asking!

Etyek– 30 km from Budapest

I found myself feeling a bit stir crazy in early March so two friends and I split a taxi from Kelenfold Train station. Splitting the 30 minute taxi ride 3 ways was much more attractive than the hour long bus ride but if you choose to go on your own there are lots of options! We went right as the wineries were opening for the season in early March so it was very quiet. Despite this, we passed a few different groups who had also braved the cold. Tours can be booked that leave from Budapest’s city center and take you to all the wineries. 

Apart from the many wonderful wineries and beautiful views, there are lots of places to enjoy the local food. A great place to start if you are going on your own is Ujhegy tca. Many cellars and restaurants line this street. My personal favorites were Mestersonka and Etyeki Sajtutallomas. Both unique eateries with an atmosphere that screams Eastern European, service that makes you feel like you’re a personal guest of the owners, and food that left me rolling out of Etyek wishing I could somehow grow another stomach. 

Etyek comes alive in the warm season with festivals so be sure you look on the calendar to see what’s happening while you’re there. The wine and food will be well worth the trek. 

Eger– 130 km from Budapest

I went to Eger on a little solo trip to celebrate my birthday. A 2 hour train ride from Budapest, I knew Eger would not disappoint with its promise of lots of wine and history. In the center of the city sits quite a few historical sights that are all within walking distance of each other. I suggest starting the day in Dobo Istvan Ter, a beautiful square with fountains, statues and cafés with outdoor seating. Then head up to the Castle of Eger. The Eger Castle was the most enjoyable and informative of the places I visited. Sitting on top of a hill and offering beautiful views of the city, the Castle grounds offer a museum, reenactments, and a well-preserved look at what life looked like in the 1500’s- before and after the Turkish invasion. From the Castle you can walk up the Eger Minaret, a former mosque tower. A day in Eger wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Gal Tibor Cellars. You can pre book a tasting or just reserve a table and drink through their “by the glass” menu. Either way, a sampling of the Bikaver (or Bulls Blood) is necessary. Local stories claim that when the Ottoman empire attacked Eger the first time in 1552, Hungarian soldiers were seen drinking something so deeply red it couldn’t possibly be wine. It must be bulls blood. The “bulls blood” helped fortify the soldiers and defeat the Turks. A short half hour walk or 15 minute cab ride is Szépasszony-völgy, or The Valley of Beautiful Women. This little valley is home to over 20 wine cellars. Small and kitschy, I found the area to be charming and approachable. Tours of the valley are available to book. 

Lake Balaton– 90 to 200km from Budapest 

Located in the middle of Hungary sits Lake Balaton, the longest lake in Central Europe. There are many little towns around the border, all with unique offerings. The North is more characterized by mountains and its wine region while the flat Southern region is more known for its resorts and parties. I went on a day trip to Balaton Racs. I love swimming. There’s a really wonderful specific kind of peace I get when swimming and just existing near a body of water. So I would have been perfectly content just floating in the water for hours. The paddle boats, souvenir shops, and restaurants all felt like extra after spending the afternoon by the water. The area I went to was quiet and chill but I learned that a calm day was completely out of character for the area. A day trip was actually a necessity as all the hotels and Air BNBs were completely booked by the time I decided to make my trip. Some of the beaches located around Balaton are “private” in the sense you have to pay but it is well worth it as the beaches are well-maintained. 

Normafa– 7 km from Szell Kalman Ter metro stop

While not technically a town, Normafa is a popular tourist site in the hills of Buda. With lots of hiking and panoramic views, there is something to do in Normafa for any season. There are public grills, hiking trails, and large fields littered with picnic tables. Depending on the season little cafes can be found in certain parts as well. I went to celebrate a friend’s birthday party in November. We built a fire and kept it going with wood we (not me the Hungarians who attended the party) chopped. I took the tram to Szell Kalman Ter and then took a bus up the hill from there. The bus ride was about a half hour long and can be used with your public transit BKK or Budapest Card. The most “instagrammable” spot in the park is the Elizabeth Tower that offers a panoramic view of Buda from a  white stone tower. 

Normafa is unique in that it perfectly encapsulates the Eastern European landscape. Wild and slightly untamable but begging for you to explore it. If you are only in Budapest for a few days but want to get an idea of what the Hungarian countryside looks like, Normafa is a happy medium. 

Esztergom– 45 km from Budapest

According to my nail stylist, Esztergom is the most beautiful city in Hungary and I would be what roughly translated as ‘shitting my time here’ if I didn’t go. She encouraged me to forgo a trip to Gyor and instead go to Esztergom. I’m glad I decided not to ‘shit my time in Hungary’ and go. I took the train up around 11am and arrived just in time to have lunch. I walked to Széchényi tér where I had lunch at a wine bar and admired the town hall. After lunch I walked up the long and winding hill to the Basilica, the tallest building in the country. A massive building that looms over the city, the Basilica was built between 1822 and 1869. It has hints of everything from Neoclassical architecture to a deep crypt that feels more like Ancient Egypt than a religious building in Hungary. The Basilica’s grounds are picturesque with large statues and foot paths encircling the building. Next, I walked through the town and up another hill to see Szenttamás. Slovakia can be seen from this scenic village as it is located right across the Danube. Walking along the right side of the Danube in Víziváros, or ‘Water town’ is a great way to get a peek at the neighboring country. This neighborhood, which has heavy Turkish influences, also is home to Erzebet Park where you can find a preserved part of the old city walls with an Arabic inscription that applauds the Turkish victory in 1543. 

While I only mentioned the Hungarian towns I visited, there were far more I wanted to visit and just simply did not have the time. I felt a bit of guilt at one point thinking that I should have used my weekends more to my advantage. Instead of spending my weekends laying on the couch recovering from teaching I should have spent my time exploring Hungary. I spent most of my weekends falling in love with Budapest so I can’t mourn my lost adventures too much. 

If you have any Hungarian towns to add, comment below! My time in Hungary is drawing to a close and I have so much I want to say before leaving so make sure you turn on notifications. And check out a few pictures of my adventures from this article below.